In some of the world’s greatest cities, such as New York and Tokyo, locals heading to hotels to eat and drink well is a thing. It’s a big thing. From Dowling’s in The Carlyle (NYC) to Nadaman in Shangri-La (Tokyo), some of the best meals I’ve had overseas have been in hotels.
Sydney has always been different. Heading to a hotel for dinner often feels like a poor choice, and it’s only in the past few years that the conversation is beginning to switch from “hotel restaurants” to “restaurants in a hotel”.
There are very few exceptions. QT Sydney’s self-contained dining scene is world-class, as is Pier One Sydney Harbour with The Gantry. Then, of course you have the great Bentley Bar & Restaurant, which has distinguished itself so well that many forget that it’s part of the Radisson Blu. And don’t forget newcomers like Brasserie 1930 in Capella and Kiln at Ace Hotel.
Having a destination restaurant is something all hotels should aspire to.
One of Sydney’s foremost grand dames, Sheraton Grand Sydney Hyde Park, is hoping that will the case with the newly opened Sydney Common.
Helmed by chef Jamie Robertson, Sydney Common is pitched as a classic woodfire grill restaurant and bar, hoping to satisfy guests and locals with a menu that’s both wide-ranging and incredibly focused. Robertson, who has been mentored by the unimpeachable Martin Benn, brings a wealth of experience to the open kitchen, backed by stints at London powerhouses Hide and The Capital, as well Sydney favourites The Bridge Room and Ester.
With a Champagne and oyster bar yet to come, the space feels like a world away from its former glory as the home of Feast, one of the city’s most popular seafood-laden buffets. Located on the hotel’s second floor, Sydney Common feels appropriately open and elegant, benefitting from those dazzling Hyde Park views.
Scanning the menu, it seems Robertson has a keen understanding that great produce must speak for itself. Restraint is a hard-won skill when you’ve got access to some of Australia’s leading producers. As such, you’ll find uncomplicated dishes like John Dory with pil pil butter and charred lemon, Yamba king prawns, and a superb 800g dry-aged grass-fed rib eye with smoked fat vinaigrette and anchovy butter.
Desserts are also simple (and invariably delicious). You’ll end a meal with the likes of lemon tart with coconut chantilly, roasted nectarine melba with cultured cream, raspberry and smoked maple, and dark chocolate mousse with praline crumble, sourdough ice cream and hazelnuts.
A splashy five-star hotel needs a robust wine program as well, and so Head Sommelier Sebastian Brogren has hand-selected a 260-bin wine list, championing Australian producers and straddling the line between new and old-world wines.
Only time will tell if Sydney Common can step up to powerhouses like Gowings and Bentley. For now, it’s a very welcome addition to a part of Sydney that’s always been in desperate need of a swanky destination eatery. Plus, those Hyde Park views really seal the deal and add a satisfying sense of place to it all.
161 Elizabeth St, Sydney NSW 2000
(02) 9286 6000
sydneycommon.com.au.
