I’ve never seen a grown man cry at the thought of leaving a resort, but such is the specialness of Sheraton Resort & Spa, Tokoriki Island, Fiji.
The five-star is one of two Sheraton properties in Fiji, but it’s the only one that’s on an outer-island. You catch a lengthy boat ride from Port Denarau – the location of Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort – straight to Tokoriki, which is part of the dreamy Mamanuca Islands often praised as the best part of the archipelago.
And, truly it is. Sitting in the open-air lobby, dreading having to leave this special part of the world, I can understand why this man just burst out crying.
Staff have gathered to sing a series of soulful farewell songs to guests before they depart on the next boat out. Kids are running up and hugging staff members, clinging on for dear life, while heartfelt thankyous are exchanged. All the staff can say is, “it’s not goodbye, it’s see you later, those tears just mean you’ll be back.”
I couldn’t help but shed a strategic tear as well, hoping that – much like flipping a coin into Rome’s Trevi Fountain – it would expediate my return.
Which surprises me. I always tell people I’m not an island person. I’ve been to Fiji about four times now and while I do love the country – it’s my favourite in the South Pacific apart from the Cook Islands. I’ve never loved it in the same way I love a big city like New York, Tokyo or Chicago. Being out here changed that.
Location
There are two resorts on Tokiriki Island, one is exclusively Adult’s Only and one is family friendly with an Adult’s Only section. Sheraton slots into the latter, but before that throws you off, consider this.
Fiji’s famously familial hospitality can have the most calming effect on even the hardiest of travellers, so what you’ll get is far from the ear-piercing scene of frantic children running around while parents desperately try to dial in some “me time.” The kids here are probably more relaxed than their parents, splashing around in the large infinity pool or watching in wonder as tribes from nearby islands arrive for evening kava ceremonies and traditional dance.
Tokirki perfectly embodies this distinctive Fijian hospitality, enhanced by its remote location. Here, you’re essentially cut off from the rest of the world. You’ll only share the white sands with other hotel guests and most of the island’s amenities are based off the island’s private reef. A private snorkel safari is a must and can be booked through the hotel’s dedicated on-beach Activity Centre, or you can take a jet ski for a light joyride around the small island.
Monuriki Island, the most famous of the Mamanuca Islands (because Tom Hanks’ Castaway was shot there), is only a 1.5-kilometre boat ride away and is worth the day trip if you’re at Sheraton for a few nights. If you only have one or two, however, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to peel yourself away from Tokiriki’s restful embrace, which the resort channels so exceptionally well through its design.
Cliches exist for a reason so I’ll use one, unashamedly: it’s heaven on Earth.
Design
Just about every resort in Fiji likes to work in traditional design to immerse guests in a sense of place. This Sheraton is no exception, with many of the structures worked in that thatched hut style, best expressed by the traditional beachfront bures that are better suited for honeymooners and solo travellers.
A multi-million dollar refurbishment has also refreshed the resort and given it some fantastic ambient detail, like a new glass veranda that looks flash set against the beach views. This also fend off any dated looks. I’m sure the hotel would have shown its age prior to me checking in mid-July, given it’s been open since 2014, but I wouldn’t have been able to tell. It looks like a brand-new resort to me.
The reception is part of the wider main building which has a very open design. Plus, there’s a few shops for any forgetful travellers, a games rooms, and a large dining room, Waitu House Restaurant, where breakfast is served each morning while freshly caught seafood dominates dinner time.
The resort has a footprint of around 35 acres on the southwestern corner of the island. Views are maximised at every single turn, meaning that the resort doesn’t have to overengineer the design. All you’ve got to do is open up every door and the magic comes flooding in.
Rooms
My beachfront pure has its own private plunge pool so there’s straight where I go as soon as I step inside. Large, comfortable and chic, it trades any excessive design so you’re eyes are almost always on that pristine view overlooking the quiet calm of the ocean.
The large, comfortable bed is as soft as any I’ve slept on before. You get extra points if you leave the door open at night with the sounds of the ocean gently rocking you to sleep. That said, there’s no screen so you’ll need to fend for yourself but I rarely heard any mosquitoes vying for my skin throughout my stay.
While there’s no outdoor shower, it certainly feels like one with a big picture window (the view is blocked, don’t worry) right next to the wet room-style shower. Luxury bathroom amenities add to the premium feel while any traveller will appreciate the generous size.
Food & Drink
This hotel works hard when it comes to providing guests with an array of dining options. You have three main ones as well as a two-sided bar, one of which is swim-up.
Again, Waitu House is the leisurely all-day eatery with a broad strip of indoor-outdoor seating, atoning for its lack of ambiance by always placing emphasis on the view. The buffet breakfast, while standard for a family-friendly resort, is overly generous and has plenty of options geared towards a mainly western palate.
Curcuma, on the other side of the pool, is a sunken space that’s easy to miss. It was closed during my stay but this is where you’ll find Fijian-Indian cuisine tucked away from the rest of the resort.
The essential one, however, is Tokoriki Coco Palms – a large outdoor space that hosts lovo-style barbecues expressed with a massive picnic-style buffet framed by drink stalls and kava ceremonies. Locals from the nearby islands boat in for the night to help host the BBQ, which ends in a generously long series of traditional dances where staff encourage guests to get involved. It’s the foremost symbol of Fijian hospitality and what truly makes this property one of Fiji’s finest offerings.
Amenities
An on-site fitness centre is there should you please, but chances are you’ll be more interested in the on-water activities. Jet skiiing here is gentle and very approachable for beginners, with state-of-the-art jet skis and staff more than willing to take guests out on a tour around the island.
There’s a blackboard near reception where each day’s activities are hand drawn with exact timings. All of them are either inclusive or add-ons, with things simple things like fish feeding to crafts workshops and island tours.
If the location’s restorative nature isn’t enough to bring you out of your mind, Tokoriki Retreat Spa will satisfy anyone looking for some wellness. Treatments are skewed towards local products and customs, including the warm sea shell massage which uses heated shells to purify the body.
Service
In case you didn’t already get the impression: the service is what really makes Sheraton Resort & Spa, Tokoriki Island, Fiji such a memorable experience. You’ll more or less get a similarly warm welcome everywhere you go in Fiji, but there’s a sincerity and warmth here that sets the resort apart.
Of course, credit that to the staff. The property must have scored a windfall of Fiji’s best operators – nurturing, friendly and genuine. It’s the kind of service that instantly elevates your stay.
Value
Fiji’s hotel prices differ greatly by seasons so you can expect to pay anywhere between A$376 and A$514 for a night at the property. That’s not bad at all for a Fijian five-star, especially one that cradles you away from the tourist beats of Nadi and shows you an unforgettable part of Fiji.
Even if you’re a solo traveller, it’s hard not to be won over by Sheraton Resort & Spa, Tokoriki Island, Fiji’s superlative hospitality. Hey, you may even burst out in tears when it comes time to check out.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS (OUT OF FIVE)
The author stayed as a guest of Marriott Bonvoy and travelled as a guest of Fiji Airways.
