This past July, I had the pleasure of returning to Las Vegas. But this time, the focus of the trip shifted in a surprising way: I got schooled in the history of the Las Vegas strip. This offered a new perspective of this vibrant city, learning about the glitz and glamour that gave Vegas the notoriety it has today.
It started with Lady Gaga’s remarkable Jazz and Piano show, giving us a peek into the historic residencies of the past that featured jazz legends like Tony Bennett and Frank Sinatra. An unexpected pairing with that was going to The Neon Museum, a “boneyard” of Vegas’s iconic neon signs, which offered an interesting background into the historic casinos that have come and gone from the strip.
This exhibit is one of the most visually captivating places I’ve ever been to. At night, the boneyard is lit up with hundreds of signs from familiar casinos like the Golden Nugget, to lesser known or short-lived bars like Margarita Baby. They also include signs from other local businesses such as The Happy Shirt from Steiners Cleaners which was one of the first animated signs, using a flasher to make it appear as though the shirt was moving. It was surprising to learn that the oldest neon sign in their collection, from The Green Shack, was created in 1934. The newest one, meanwhile, was from 2019, created by Tim Burton as a part of his Lost Vegas exhibition at The Neon Museum, pictured below.
I learned so much about many iconic hotels, casinos and bars, but the most surprising stories for us were ones about the rise of “Atomic Tourism” in Nevada in the 1950’s. This consisted of events, excursions and shows centered around the atomic bomb, with the testing sight being in clear view of the Las Vegas Strip. Many hotels would host viewing parties where patrons could watch these tests being performed.
But the learning doesn’t stop at just the museum, be sure to check out the immersive experience Brilliant! Jackpot just next door (pictured above – but it doesn’t begin to do it justice). Created by Craig Winslow, this amazing 360-degree light show will transport you back in time as they “re-light” 40 iconic Vegas signs with the use of projection mapping.
These signs were too old to be restored to working capacity, so Winslow has cleverly mapped out each sign, bulb by bulb, using projectors to light them up once again. They pair this with historic video footage of the Vegas Strip, along with 3D audio/music components. This show was equally gorgeous as it was moving. I was captivated by seeing these landmarks come back to life.
The Neon Museum is currently in a transitional phase, as plans to move locations are underway. As of now, they are only able to display 35% of their collection at the current location. With its rising popularity, and the need to showcase everything their collection has to offer, they plan to move to Las Vegas’ art district by 2027. I can’t wait to see even more once the move is complete.
And a special mention must also be made to the architectural delight that is their welcome building – pictured above. Designed by architect Paul Revere Williams, this stunning curvilinear structure was originally the lobby of the La Concha Motel (whose sign also appears in the museum), which opened in 1961. It was moved to this location after the motel closed in 2004, yet another example of this incredible museum saving a piece of Las Vegas history.
To plan your own visit to the Neon Museum, as well as Brilliant Jackpot!, head to their official website.
The author visited as a guest of the Neon Museum and Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority. Photos by the author and Larry Heath. While in Las Vegas we stayed at the sparkling new Circa Resort and Casino on Fremont Street.
