It was my first bison and bacon burger, eaten outdoors in the gentle Pacific Northwest breeze, when I realised that Vancouver’s food scene was different.
There’s great pride of provenance in British Columbia. The city’s chefs have the good sense to play to the region’s natural strengths. And from the land to the sea, this mountainous part of North America boasts a memorable food scene that expresses the seamless multiculturalism that defines Vancouver’s incredible food scene.
Full-flavoured game meats aside, Vancouver has an unfair advantage when it comes to food. Although it only has around ten Michelin starred restaurants – Toronto has 16 – and not much more Bib Gourmands, the diversity on display here is astounding.
And that’s just in Vancouver, with the satellite cities of Richmond (known for Chinese) and Surrey (known for Indian) widening the food scene considerably with everything from dumpling trails to the country’s best curry houses.
If it’s your first time visiting one of the most picturesque cities in the world, you should take note of the following five spots I feel showcase Vancity’s steely grip on culinary mastery, whether its refining worldly cuisines with local produce or paying homage to the natural flavours plucked from the Okanagan Valley, Fraser Valley and Vancouver Island.
1. Have a mind-blowing beef burger at Arc Dining
Although Botanist over at the nearby Fairmont Pacific Rim commands a higher profile, I favour the beautiful, casual and locally focused food at Arc Dining on street-level at Fairmont Waterfront.
The luxury hotel, which has its own productive rooftop garden (and loyal swarm of hard-working honeybees) presents its signature restaurant as a rather straightforward, unadorned space. There’s no clear design elements that mark a premium dining experience, but the food is consistently some of the best I’ve had in Vancouver.
This is a great place to go if you want to try the best of British Columbia. Seafood chowder with depth and richness, breakfast staples elevated by fresh produce, and a good balance between health-conscious dishes and those more indulgent, luxurious fan-favourites like the AU$53 wagyu burger.
The burger is presented open-faced with a big, juicy 170-gram wagyu patty from Hiro wagyu farm in Fraser Valley. The clean, hormone- and steroid-free meat is then dressed with foie gras, onion jam, cheddar, smoked bacon and a perfect fried egg. I didn’t expect it to be one of the best burgers I’ve had in North America. But again, Vancouver’s food scene is different. BC produce is some of the best in the world.
2. Order up all the sushi at Miku
Miku isn’t exactly a “locals tip” and you’ll find the waterfront sushi restaurant in just about any good food guide to Vancouver. But the hype isn’t unfounded.
After moving from Coal Harbour to Canada Place in 2008, Miku Waterfront has dominated the scene of high-end Aburi-style sushi. That is, mostly nigiri sushi that has been kissed by flame, adding a beautiful crisp and char to the soft, slinky and remarkably fresh local seafood.
Texturally perfect platters of all types of sushi are the way to go here, supported by sides like lobster ceviche and bookended by the signature green tea opera dessert.
Each and every plate is pure theatre, but don’t think the optics are overcompensating for a lack of quality. This is some of the best sushi I’ve had in North America, easily showcasing just how dense and full-flavoured British Columbia’s sealife is.
Sit at the bar if you’re flying solo, or grab a table by the windows. Glancing out over the waterfront every now and then is part of the appeal.
3. Indulge in pulled pork pancakes at The Red Wagon
I first visited Vancouver in 2018 and managed to find this via Google (back when SEO listicles were slightly credible). The Red Wagon is a hop, skip and jump over the “bad” stretch of E Hastings, so if you’re staying at the waterfront it’s best to catch a taxi or Uber over to this unassuming cafe. I haven’t stopped thinking about it since.
Having only recently revisited The Red Wagon’s new location (just a few blocks down from the original, in a much bigger space), I can confirm that these are some of the best stuffed pancakes I’ve had. The only stack that comes even close is a Korean cafe I can’t remember the name of in Seoul.
The ooey gooey indulgence is a bit too much. You get a stack of three thick, textured buttermilk pancakes that break open to reveal piles of fresh, piping hot pulled pork flavoured with Jack Daniels maple syrup.
The American diner-style cafe, dressed in a charming retro outfit, is CAD$22 well spent. I’d be impressed if you could finish the entire stack. I certainly couldn’t.
4. Sit down to a set at Burdock & Co
The menu can be high-minded and hard to pin down, but what chef Andrea Carlson is doing in Vancouver’s achingly hip and artful Mount Pleasant neighbourhood is mighty impressive.
There’s real integrity in the dishes she comes up with, steering clear of any notable trends or motions and alchemising good produce into good food. Unexpected food as well. The set menu changes so often that calling out any particular highlights is useless, but on my visit last year I picked at immensely satisfying plates like Halibut mousse with Acadian gold caviar and spot prawns with ginger Island glaze.
Signature sets seem to be influenced by moon phases. And, sure. That storytelling element adds a nice frame for it all, including the purposefully matched cocktails which bring depth and dimension to each dish.
Another strong tick for Burdock & Co is the fun, fast and chatty service. You don’t feel like just another number here, and feeling humanised by the staff just adds to the warmth (and makes the food taste that much better). It’s a big nod for this quaint, Michelin-starred dining room.
5. Take your pick at Phenom Penh
40-year old, family-run institution Phenom Penh has almost 100 dishes listed on its menu, all lifted from traditional Cambodian and Vietnamese cuisine with a snub-nosed focus on authenticity.
There are flavour profiles on this menu that are rare finds in North America, sprouting a great deal of signatures including butter beef and spicy tamarind crab that are miles more impressive than most Michelin-starred dishes.
Bib Gourmand is increasingly more valuable than a Michelin star in this cost of living crisis. And being able to offer top quality while keeping prices low is infinitely more impressive than cobbling an award-winning dish from overtly expensive produce.
Which I guess is why Phenom Penh is one of the city’s most highly-prized restaurants. Resting in the heart of Chinatown with hard-won reservations and long wait times.
The butter beef was my introduction to Phenom Penh’s golden reputation, and just under a year later I can’t stop talking about that generous plating of rare marinated beef, sliced thin and served on a bed of fried garlic, cilantro and housemade sauce.
To get the most of Chinatown, I highly recommend taking a food and cultural tour from chef-cum-guide Robert Sung on A Wok Around Chinatown.
Where should I stay in Vancouver?
Fairmont Waterfront | REVIEW
Vancouver is dominated by Accor’s historic Fairmont brand. There are no less than four Fairmont hotels in the city – with one at the international airport – and they are all incredibly different from one another. I’ve stayed at the Fairmont Waterfront twice now and would pick that as my favourite, with its incredible picture windows looking out over the Coast Mountains and Vancouver’s frenetic harbour. Laying in bed and watching all the seaplanes land while cargo ships slowly pace by is a swift reminder of Vancouver’s beauty.
The food is great too. Arc Dining has the single best breakfast I’ve had in Canada, with brekkie poutine a must. Although it’s the Wagyu burger with foie gras that’s the real stunner here; better than you’d expect with locally sourced beef.
The Paradox Hotel | REVIEW
The oversized suites with wraparound balconies at The Paradox Hotel are easily the most generous accommodations in Vancouver. If you want space, this ritzy, influencer favourite is a no-brainer. The beautiful, elegant design completely papers up the building’s garish past as a Trump International Hotel. Now The Paradox is a tasteful, well-located hotel just a short walk from the CBD on Vancouver’s luxury shopping strip.
It’s a scene-to-be-seen type of hotel, with Mansions nightclub popular amongst locals and an incredible pool terrace with a hot tub. I’ve never seen a Canadian hotel where the cutting-edge nightclub has an indoor pool built into the floor (it’s covered during events) as well, so stay here if you’re planning on fitting some nightlife into your trip. You’ll also find only one of two Mott 32 restaurants in North America here (the other is in Las Vegas).
The author explored Vancouver as a guest of Destination British Columbia.
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