Chef Chris Irving can claim some pretty incredible career achievements, including organising a banquet for the Queen, consulting for the Spanish Noble family, feeding the Beckhams and working alongside Chef Gordon Ramsay for four years. His hard work has led to an illustrious career and status that he’s used to champion the adoption of ethically sourced sustainable seafood. A passion which recently saw him join forces with the Australian Marine Conservation Society as their Ambassador on the Chef’s Charter for The Good Fish Project.
The pairing has resulted in Pier One home of Irving’s The Gantry Restaurant and Bar recently hosting the annual David Thomas Conservation Oration, with a menu produced by Irving reflective of his beliefs. Having previously worked with the Vancouver Humane Society and Oceanwise in Canada, it was with little coaxing that the Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS) took Irving on when he reached out to them. The Good Fish Project’s aim is twofold, to increase education and awareness amongst diners of where the fish they’re consuming has been caught or farmed, as well as empowering chefs to be able to serve, source and promote sustainable seafood in their restaurants.
Irving’s proactive support of the cause has seen him utilise his connections with the Marriott chain to kick start a rollout through the Asia Pacific region of hotels. ‘I have been in touch with the other chefs from our other Marriott properties and have the full support from our regional team to get the project rolled out. The next step will be for myself and AMCS to meet individually with the different chefs, and see how we can implement The Good Fish Project into their kitchens.’
Watching Irving lovingly put together the menu for the night it’s easy to envision the social impact a project like this will have with increasing support. The Gantry’s local suppliers have been carefully chosen by Irving and have made the seafood green-list of the AMCS sustainable seafood guide. ‘I use Joto Fresh Fish for the majority of our seafood at The Gantry. They have a great facility and take great pride in their work. We also use De Costi Seafood, they supply us with our live oysters.’
It’s not only about sourcing the right suppliers, ensuring that produce is enticing and treated with care and that patrons are aware of the choices they’re making, contributes greatly to the program’s success, a feat which Irving achieves easily. Items such as the Maroochydore spanner crab with Blue Mountain radish, pear and bergamote puree and Coffin Bay King George Whiting ‘fish & chip’ cones with house made tartare not only showcase Irving’s culinary skill but the freshness and quality of produce picked off our shores.
Left: Coffin Bay King George Whiting ‘fish & chip’ cones
Right: Venison tartare with Hawkesbury kaffir lime, chilli and crispy shallot
Prominent guest speakers on the night author Tim Winton and marine biologist Dr Daniel Pauly hit home the fact that although there’s been a significant negative global impact caused by seafood industry, Australia’s been fortunate enough to not have overfished our waters. An attitude which Irving has seen translated across both Canadian and Australian culture and one we hope to nurture and keep. Whilst Irving grew up reaping the benefits of healthy lakes and rivers fishing for trout and salmon with his father, it wasn’t until his profession led him to partner with Oceanwise that he realised the true impacts.
‘I remember as a kid, the Chinook salmon would swim up Yukon river to spawn. The spawned out salmon would line the shores of the river, dead and rotting, a smell one could never forget. As I got older I noticed that there weren’t any more dead fish, and growing up fishing, I started asking questions. In the 90s, the Chinook run averaged more than 300,000 fish. In the last decade, fewer than half that number have returned to the river. The salmon population had drastically dropped, and now the Yukon River Panel is looking to allocate $1.2 million dollars to salmon restoration and enhancement projects. Fish, game and wildlife conservation is taken very seriously back home. We try to protect and preserve what we have. It’s very parallel to the programs and initiatives here in Australia, of course totally different hemispheres, but the efforts on both continents are aligned.’
Considering Irving’s stellar efforts to raise awareness through his own channels, he remains quite humble about his contributions through The Gantry and potential upcoming partnered events with the AMCS in the works. ‘I would never claim to be an expert, or try to push a message onto someone. I just want to do my part, and if I can help along the way, then great! I stand firmly for what I believe in, and have a profession I can make important decisions that can impact others. As ambassador, I hope my efforts will have even a small noticeable effect.’
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The Gantry Restaurant and Bar is located within Pier One Hotel Sydney Harbour at 11 Hickson Road Walsh Bay. For further information and to book please visit http://www.thegantry.com.au/
For more information about the Chef’s Charter as part of The Good Fish Project and how you can help advocate seafood sustainability visit >> http://www.goodfishproject.com.au/about-amcs/
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