Dubai is only 190 years old.
Yes, the famously futuristic city really hasn’t been around that long. It started as a humble fishing village in the early 18th Century and has sprouted up to be a symbol of ambition and power, offering an experience unlike anything else in the Middle East. Or the world.
It’s divisive as well. Some may want to shy away from the gargantuan skyscrapers and oddly shaped luxury resorts, but they are largely inescapable. From the fresh-faced, cantilevered Atlantis the Royal to the sky-high swagger of the Burj Khalifa.
But there’s a nascent area of Dubai that’s hoping to be the city’s future.
Expo City Dubai was opened in 2022 for the World Expo. And with it, several large-scale pavilions housing interactive exhibitions tackling big questions about the future of our world, from movement to sustainability and beyond.
But the catch is. There’s barely anyone there. On my visit earlier this year in January, Expo City was deserted apart from guests milling in and out of the $70-a-night Rove Hotel. That and a healthy collection of Emirati artists, all out to celebrate their work on the inaugural Dhai Dubai.
The light art festival was co-created by Amna Abulhoul and Anthony Bastic AM, the latter bringing 10 years of experience as the Light curator of Vivid Sydney and a key part of the wondrous Parrtjima. The later, Parrtjima, shares DNA with Dhai Dubai in that it’s a site-specific light art festival in the middle of the desert.
But instead of using natural structures and larger-than-life land art, Dhai Dubai transformed Expo City into an exciting hub of lightworks by Emirati artists. Telling Emirati stories.
A Sense of Place
I have to admit that I had no idea what to expect when the invite landed in my inbox. With Bastic’s involvement, it seemed like Dhai Dubai was the growing stages of UAE’s own version of Vivid Sydney.
In some ways, it is. But in most ways it’s not. Dhai Dubai has carved out its own unique identity by grounding visitors in a sense of place. A lot of the museums I’ve visited across the UAE (admittedly, very few – I’ve only been over twice) pose big, ambitious questions and tell the history of humanity.
There’s nothing wrong with that, of course. I enjoyed by visit to the spectacular Louvre Abu Dhabi and the presidential Qasr Al Watan. Both feature exhibitions that zoom out. But I want to zoom in as well. I want to feel connected to local stories; I want to hear them and engage these local storytellers. I want to hear about what it was like growing up and what it was now. I want that individualism that tourists rarely get unless they actively look for it.
Because at the end of the day, it all comes back to a sense of place. And I take an almost mathematical approach to it when I travel. How much sense of place can I gather? There’s a practical benefit to it. Listening to local music, speaking to local people, eating where the locals are, living life – as much as you can – like a local. Staying at hotels that have a deep connection to the land or the culture, and tell those stories through design, food and hospitality.
Across my 16 years of being an arts and travel journalist, this is the one thing that’s most important to me. That sense of place, and how much I dial it up so that my short trip resonates with me more, and I leave with a better understanding of where I’ve just been. The memories are most robust as a result, hence I can tell better stories and just generally get more out of my trip.
Dhai Dubai had that sense of place. And that’s so important in a city like Dubai.
Where To Find History In Dubai
Dubai feels largely disconnected from itself, like it’s sprouted so far from the sand and sea that commerce has completely papered over culture. Tourists are distracted by the flashy mega-hotels and expensive attractions that one would have to make a conscious effort to really dig into the history of Dubai.
The most renowned museum in Dubai, the Museum of the Future, is all about positioning Dubai at the forefront of modernity. Cool, I guess. But I want history. You’ll instead have to go somewhere like the incredible Al Shindagha Museum, set along the charming Dubai Creek area, to hear stories about the nation’s past and strongly held traditions.
But even then, Dubai’s history is held to a large format. I want small. I want to talk to people and learn their stories.
This is why the annual light art festival is such an important time to visit. You get the regular Dubai, while also getting these incredible stories told through high-concept sculptural and light works. The artists are there walking around, proudly telling stories about their work and what they symbolise.
Expo City Dubai Is Onto Something
Expo City Dubai and AGB Creative have created something special here, and it’ll no doubt grow into something as monumental as those skyscrapers in the near future.
Centered around the impressive Al Wasl Plaza, the light festival mirrors Expo City’s values of presenting a rich cultural tapestry that both highlights the Middle East and the world at large. Knowledge and cultural expression is key, which is why Dhai Dubai takes the admirable approach of only having local artists. Whereas Vivid Sydney, for example, has artists from all over the world.
I do hope it stays this way. While I would imagine more foreign interest will be thrown at the festival over the coming years, keeping those Middle Eastern voices front and centre will give this light art festival a distinct edge and truly make it something just as internationally recognised as Vivid Sydney.
“Dhai Dubai light art festival is a canvas for our city’s heartbeat, revealing intricate stories behind mesmerising art,” said Abulhoul.
“Each piece echoes an artist’s journey, etched in light, forming a luminous symphony where emotion meets artistry.”
This tribute to the heart and soul of Dubai has given us the perfect answer to “when is the best time to visit Dubai.” Go in January when the festival is on and you’ll unlock an important part of your trip you wouldn’t otherwise. Plus, the weather is nice and temperate.
Dhai Dubai runs from late January to early February each year. 2024 dates were January 26 to February 4.
The author flew to Dubai as a guest of Dhai Dubai and Expo City.
